Composition for straightening hair

ABSTRACT

A new composition allowing straightening hair including an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol and a vegetable oil, as well as a method for straightening hair implementing the composition.

The present invention relates to a new composition allowing thestraightening of hair comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcoholand a vegetable oil, as well as a method for straightening the hairimplementing said composition.

In the hair field, hair straightening is a hair styling technique thatallows straightening hair temporarily or for a longer period of time.

Consumers wishing to straighten their hair not only seek to obtain astraightened hair having a good hold but also to obtain a result thatlasts over time, in particular by withstanding subsequent shampoos.

To modify the shape of the hair, in a long lasting manner, heattreatments are generally used. These treatments enable a visualmodification of the appearance of the hairstyle, both in terms of curlor frizz and in terms of overall volume of the hair. Such treatmentsresult in a smoother visual appearance, a substantial gain inbrilliance, resistance to moisture and heat for maintaining thehairstyle the day long.

These heat treatments are generally supplemented (or preceded) by«chemical» treatments of the hair with particular compositions.

A first complementary treatment involves the use of thiol reducers-basedcompositions. These technologies require a rigorous respect of theconditions of application recommended by the suppliers, in particular interms of quantity and rest time. Furthermore, they may becontraindicated on overly sensitized hair and not be compatible with theapplication on the same day of other treatments such as coloration ordiscoloration. Moreover, they are smelly.

A second complementary treatment involves the use of compositions basedon formalin (or formaldehyde) and its derivatives. These treatments havethe particularity to be robust, perfectly compatible with all otherconventional hair treatments, such as thiol straightening mentionedabove, alkaline straightening, coloring or discoloration of all types,performed before or after. They give the hair an excellent hold, a verystrong brilliance and an ease of daily care. However, these productsrequire the use of a hair straightener at a temperature of 180-230° C.which very strongly damages the hair in the short or medium term.Furthermore, these straightening methods are also very long to applybecause it is necessary to work strand by strand and the average overalltime to straighten hair of the «Afro-Caribbean» type is 4 to 9 hours.Finally, for toxicological reasons, the use of some of these compoundsis now prohibited and/or regulated.

Thus, new complementary treatments have been developed to facilitate thestraightening process and to avoid the use of these substances which aretoxic and harmful to the health of users.

Thus, the international patent application WO 2011/104282 describes theuse of acid-based compositions, in particular the glyoxylic acid. Thisapplication describes in particular a method for semi-permanentlystraightening the hair, which consists in applying an alpha-ketoacidsolution to the hair for 15 to 120 minutes, then drying and finallystraightening with a hair straightener, at a temperature ofapproximately 200° C., the hair. The alpha-ketoacid that is used ispreferably the glyoxylic acid.

In turn, the French patent application FR 3030241 describes a method forstraightening the hair by applying a composition comprising an aminoacid and a polyol followed by a straightening step by means of a hairstraightener at a temperature of at least 100° C.

Nonetheless, it has been found that the glyoxylic acid may be not welltolerated, particularly when the scalp is sensitive and/or irritated.Its volatility, amplified by the use heat of the hair straightener, isalso problematic.

Furthermore, all newly developed complementary treatments are ultimatelyineffective or, at the very least, of limited effectiveness, and allrequire the use of a hair straightener at high temperature, whichdeteriorate the hair causing in particular their breakage.

Thus, at the date of the present invention, it is still necessary todevelop a composition allowing the straightening of hair in asustainable and efficient way under conditions of easy applicationwithout deteriorating the quality of the hair.

Yet, there has now been found a composition allowing for an effectiveand long lasting hair straightening, according to a method ofapplication which is easy to implement while preserving the quality ofthe hair.

The object of the present invention is therefore a composition forstraightening hair comprising:

-   -   an amino acid;    -   a protein;    -   an alcohol; and    -   a vegetable oil.

The composition according to the present invention allows for aneffective and long lasting hair straightening, according to an easiermethod of application and preserving the quality of the hair, inparticular by not using the hair straightener.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 shows hair before treatment with the composition according to theinvention;

FIG. 2 shows microscopic analysis of the structure of the hair beforetreatment with the composition according to the invention;

FIG. 3 shows the hair after treatment with the composition according tothe invention;

FIG. 4 shows microscopic analysis of the structure of the hair aftertreatment with the composition according to the invention;

FIG. 5 shows hair before treatment with the composition according to theinvention;

FIG. 6 shows the hair after treatment with the composition according tothe invention;

FIG. 7 shows the hair after treatment with the composition according tothe invention and after steam treatment;

FIG. 8 shows the hair before straightening treatment with astraightening composition containing only an amino acid and an alcohol;and

FIG. 9 shows the hair after treatment with the composition containingonly an amino acid and an alcohol.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

In the context of the present invention:

-   -   the term «straightening» means any treatment allowing flattening        or straightening the hair in order to give it a straightened        apparent surface;    -   the term «amino acid» means any amino acid known to those        skilled in the art, in particular the amino acids of general        formula (I) or (II) below

in which

-   -   R represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₅-alkyl group possibly        substituted with at least one group selected from hydroxyl,        amino; —C(O)—OH; —S(O)₂—OH; —C(O)—O⁻, M+; —S(O)₂—O⁻, M+;    -   M+ representing a cationic counter ion such as an alkali metal,        an alkaline-earth metal, or ammonium;    -   n is 0 or 1;

as well as their betaine forms; their optical isomers; solvates such ashydrates, and their acid or base, organic or mineral salts;

said amino acids being possibly grafted onto a heteromolecule which maybe a silicone, a glucidic compound, a fatty acid or derivative thereof,a surfactant of anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric nature;

-   -   the term «vegetable oil» means any fatty substance extracted        from an oleaginous plant, that is to say a plant whose seeds,        nuts or fruits contain lipids;    -   the term «protein» means any protein, heteroprotein or protein        derivative such as a protein grafted on a heteromolecule which        may be a silicone, a glucidic compound, a fatty acid or        derivative thereof, a surfactant of anionic, cationic, non-ionic        or amphoteric nature, of variable size and shape, formed by one        or several chain(s) charged with amino acids and bonded by        peptide bonds. Preferably, the protein has a tertiary or        quaternary structure;    -   the term «C_(x)-C_(y)-alkyl» means a straight or branched        saturated hydrocarbon chain, and including from x to y carbon        atoms;    -   the term «alcohol» means any straight or branched carbon chain        containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms substituted with a hydroxyl        group, an amino alcohol, an aldol or a ketol. Preferably,        «alcohol» refers to any straight or branched compound of the        formula C_(n)H_(2n+1) OH in which n is an integer comprised        between 1 and 10; and    -   the term «polyol» means any C₁-C₁₀-alkyl group substituted with        at least two hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the term «polyol»        means any compound selected from glycerin, propylene glycol,        propane-1,3-diol or sorbitol.

In addition, in the context of the present invention, and unless statedotherwise, the proportions expressed in % correspond to weightpercentages with respect to the total weight of the considered entity.

The composition according to the present invention therefore contains anamino acid, a protein, an alcohol and a vegetable oil. Preferably, thepresent invention relates to a composition as previously describedhaving the following features, considered alone or in combination:

-   -   the amino acid is a proteinogenic amino acid or one of its acid        or base, organic or mineral salts. More preferably, the amino        acid is selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine,        carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine,        methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine,        tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta        alanine, taurine, lysine and arginine or one of their acid or        base, organic or mineral salts. Most preferably, the amino acid        is selected from glutamic acid, cysteine and arginine;    -   the protein is selected from possibly hydrolyzed creatine,        possibly hydrolyzed keratin, possibly hydrolyzed wheat protein,        possibly hydrolyzed silk protein, possibly hydrolyzed soy        protein, possibly hydrolyzed collagen, possibly hydrolyzed        elastin, possibly hydrolyzed pea protein, possibly hydrolyzed        rice protein, possibly hydrolyzed conchiolin protein and        possibly hydrolyzed whey protein. Most preferably, the protein        is selected from creatine, keratin, possibly hydrolyzed wheat        protein, possibly hydrolyzed silk protein and possibly        hydrolyzed soy protein.    -   the alcohol is selected from butanol, isopropanol and ethanol.        More preferably, the alcohol is selected as ethanol;    -   the vegetable oil contains at least 1% of sulfur or sulfur amino        acids. More preferably, the vegetable oil is selected from sweet        almond oil, olive oil, argan oil, Haarlem oil, Babassu oil,        broccoli seed oil, avocado oil, linseed oil, apricot oil,        cucumber oil, nigella oil, brazil nut oil, grape seed oil, shea        olein, sesame oil and tomato oil. Most preferably, the vegetable        oil is selected as broccoli seed oil or Haarlem oil;    -   the composition further contains a polyol; and/or    -   the composition also contains pigments or dyes allowing        obtaining a coloration of the hair.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of asingle composition or in the form of a kit comprising two, three or fourseparate compositions each containing one or more of the ingredients ofthe composition according to the present invention. Preferably, thepresent invention also relates to a kit useful for straightening haircomprising:

-   -   on the one hand, a composition containing the amino acid as        previously defined and the protein as previously defined; and    -   on the other hand, a composition containing the alcohol as        previously defined and the vegetable oil as previously defined.

Preferably, the present invention relates to a kit as previouslydescribed having the following features, considered alone or incombination:

-   -   the kit contains from 50% to 70% of the composition comprising        the amino acid and the protein and from 30% to 50% of the        composition comprising the alcohol and the vegetable oil;    -   the composition containing the amino acid and the protein        contains from 0.1% to 20% of amino acid as previously defined,        preferably from 0.1% to 5% of amino acid as previously defined,        more preferably from 0.1% to 1% of amino acid as previously        defined;    -   the composition containing the amino acid and the protein        contains from 0.1% to 20% of protein as previously defined, more        preferably from 0.1% to 5% of protein as previously defined, and        most preferably from 0.1% to 2% of protein as previously        defined;    -   the composition containing the amino acid and the protein is in        the form of a cream, gel, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion,        hair lotion or shampoo. More preferably, the composition        containing the amino acid and the protein is in the form of a        cream;    -   the composition containing the alcohol and the vegetable oil is        in the form of a cream, gel, oil-in-water or water-in-oil        emulsion, bi-phasic lotion or shampoo. More preferably, the        composition containing the alcohol and the vegetable oil is in        the form of a bi-phasic lotion;    -   the composition containing the alcohol and the vegetable oil        contains from 1% to 50% of alcohol as previously defined, more        preferably from 10% to 50% of alcohol as previously defined, and        most preferably from 10% to 30% of alcohol as previously        defined;    -   the composition containing the alcohol and the vegetable oil        contains from 50% to 95% of vegetable oil as previously defined,        more preferably from 50% to 80% of vegetable oil as previously        defined, and most preferably from 70% to 80% of vegetable oil as        previously defined;    -   the composition containing the alcohol and the vegetable oil        further contains a polyol; and/or    -   the pigments or dyes for the hair coloring are integrated in the        preparation containing the amino acids and the proteins or in a        complementary preparation.

The composition according to the present invention, whether in the formof a kit or not, may be applied according to any method known to thoseskilled in the art. Preferably, the composition according to the presentinvention is applied according to the method comprising the followingsteps:

-   -   when the composition is in the form of a kit as previously        described, mixing the composition comprising the amino acid and        the protein as previously defined and the composition comprising        the alcohol and the vegetable oil as previously defined in order        to obtain the composition according to the present invention;    -   applying the obtained product (that is to say the composition        according to the present invention) strand by strand from the        root to the tip;    -   leaving the product to act for a period that may vary from 15        minutes to 45 minutes;    -   drying the hair, preferably with hot air for example using a        hair dryer;    -   rinsing the hair with water; and    -   proceeding with styling with a hair dryer.

The method according to the present invention can be easily implementedand allows for an effective and long lasting hair straightening withoutthe use of a hair straightener, thus preserving the quality of the hair.

The method according to the present invention may further be completedby:

-   -   the application of a shampoo prior to the application of the        composition according to the invention;    -   a partial pre-drying of the hair before the application of the        composition according to the invention; and/or    -   the application of a composition of the hair «mask» type,        whether hydrophobic or not, after rinsing with water and before        styling the hair.

The present invention is illustrated in a non-limiting manner by thefollowing examples.

EXAMPLE 1—KIT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

A kit containing:

-   -   a straightening composition in the form of a cream comprising an        amino acid and a protein;    -   and a bi-phasic activator in the form of a bi-phasic lotion        comprising an alcohol and a vegetable oil;

whose compositions are reported respectively in the following Tables 1and 2 is prepared.

TABLE 1 Straightening composition Ingredients Quantity (% w/w) Glutamicacid 0.1 Cysteine HCl 0.3 Arginine 0.1 Creatine 0.05 Hydrolyzed wheatprotein 0.3 Hydrolyzed soy protein 0.3 Hydrolyzed Keratin 0.3Polyquaternium 7 0.25 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 0.25 Perfume 0.3Phenoxyethanol 0.3 Amisol Trio ™ 0.2 Phospholipids Glycine soya oilGlycolipids Glycine soya sterol Ascorbic acid 0.05 Cetearyl alcohol 4Cetrimonium chloride 2 Ceteareth 20 0.3 Glycerin 0.25 Ethylhexylpalmitate 0.25 Triticum vulgare (wheat germ oil) 0.25 Orbignya oleifera(Babassu seed oil) 0.25 Lactic acid 0.05 Citric acid 0.05 Ceramide-30.05 BHT 0.05 PEG 90 M 0.1 Water 89.35

TABLE 2 Bi-phasic activator Ingredients Quantity (% w/w) Broccoli seedoil 75 Ethanol 20 Glycerin 2.5 Water 2.5

EXAMPLE 2—STRAIGHTENING TEST

2.1—Straightening Method

The kit described in the previous Example 1 is used to straighten a hairof the afro type, very weakened by ancient straightening with thio aciduntil a significant break over the entire portion of the tray preventingany use of strong reductant-based products (FIG. 1). Microscopicanalysis of a hair before treatment reveals an obvious corrosion of theinner structure (FIG. 2).

The application of the composition according to the invention isperformed according to the following protocol.

Step 1: Hair Preparation

A double shampoo is performed using a preparer shampoo.

Step 2: Preparation of the Composition According to the Invention

The straightening composition and the bi-phasic activator of Example 1are mixed in a straightening composition/bi-phasic activator dilutionratio of 60/40.

Step 3: Application of the Composition According to the Invention

The hair is detangled and pre-dried at 70% using a hair dryer.

The composition according to the invention is applied strand by strandfrom the root to the tip. Each strand is kneaded and combed in order toproperly distribute the product.

Afterwards, the hair is covered with a cellophane and the composition isleft to act for 30 minutes.

Step 4: Drying

Afterwards, the hair is dried in hot air with a hair dryer, by directingthe blow of air from the root to the tip to lower the cuticle. 3 cm-widestrands are selected and maintained perpendicular to the scalp in orderto be 100% dried.

Step 5: Rinsing

Afterwards, the hair is allowed to cool and the hair is rinsed withwater. Then, a conventional «mask» composition is applied and allowed toact for 5 minutes before rinsing the hair again with water.

Step 6: Straightening

Afterwards, the hair is hand-styled with a hair dryer.

2.2—Obtained Results

It is observed that during straightening, the hair is directlystraightened and put in place without the need to use a hairstraightener.

A straightened hair is thus obtained simply in contact with the heat ofthe hair dryer, without resorting to the effect of tension or intenseheat of the hair straightener. The volume is controlled and there is asignificant reconstruction effect of this fiber which was previouslysensitized (FIG. 3). The microscopic analysis of a hair after treatmentalso reveals the presence of straightening over the entire surface ofthe fiber as well as an improvement of the inner structure in comparisonwith the hair before treatment (FIG. 4).

An intense brilliance is observed and the hair has recovered aconsiderable fluidity and lightness.

Furthermore, the observed effects are long lasting (approximately threemonths).

EXAMPLE 3—KIT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

A kit containing:

-   -   a straightening composition in the form of a straightening cream        comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol and a vegetable        oil;    -   and a «top coat» mask comprising a protein and a hydrophobic        resin;

whose compositions are reported respectively in the following Tables 3and 4 is prepared.

TABLE 3 Straightening composition Ingredients Quantity (% w/w)Hydrolyzed wheat protein 4 Hydrolyzed Keratin 4 Broccoli seed oil 18Glycerin 3.7 Arginine 0.8 Cysteine 1 Glutamic acid 0.4 Maltose 1 Alcohol3.8 Caprylic capric triglyceride 5 Tocopherol 0.2 Aloe vera juice 20Coconut oil 8 Glyceryl stearate citrate 2 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate3 Cetearyl alcohol 2 Sodium stearoyl lactylate 1 Ceteareth-20 3Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol 0.4 Perfume 0.5Water 17.7

TABLE 4 «top coat» mask Ingredients Quantity (% w/w) Water 77.6 Cetearylalcohol 3.5 Cetrimonium chloride 6.6 Glycerin 0.5 Babassu oil 0.5Behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl 2 alcohol Wheat germ oil 0.5Polyquaternium-7 0.5 Shea Butter 2 Cetrimonium chloride, amodimethicone,1 trideceth-12 Lactic acid 0.05 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 Hydrolyzed Keratin 1Triacontanyl PVP (waterproof resin) 1 Hydrolyzed collagen 0.4Aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone 0.4 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride0.1 PEG-90M 0.1 Hydrolyzed elastin 0.8 Panthenol 0.5 BHT 0.05 Perfume0.5

EXAMPLE 4—STRAIGHTENING TEST

4.1—Straightening Process

The kit described in the previous Example 3 is used for straightening afrizzy, recalcitrant and indomitable hair of the Afro type, when itcomes into contact with moisture.

A photo taken before treatment shows the hair in its natural state (FIG.5).

The application of the composition according to the invention isperformed according to the following protocol.

Step 1: Application of the Straightening Cream Directly on Dry Hair

The composition according to the invention is applied strands by strandsfrom the root to the tip. Each strand is kneaded and combed in order toproperly distribute the product.

Afterwards, the hair is covered with a cellophane and the composition isleft to act for 30 minutes.

Step 2: Drying

Afterwards, the hair is heated in hot air with a hair dryer, bydirecting the blow of air from the root to the tip to lower the cuticle.3 cm-wide strands are selected and maintained perpendicular to the scalpin order to be heated over their entire length.

Step 3: Rinsing

The entire hair is rinsed and a classic shampoo without Sodium LaurethSulfate (SLS) is applied.

The shampoo is rinsed off and the «top coat» mask composition isapplied, then left to stand for 5 minutes and rinsed.

Step 4: Straightening

Afterwards, the hair is hand-styled with a hair dryer.

4.2—Obtained Results

It is observed that during straightening, the hair is straightened andput in place without the need to use a hair straightener.

A straightened hair is thus obtained simply in contact with the heat ofthe hair dryer, without having to resort to the effect of tension orintense heat of the hair straightener (FIG. 6).

The fiber is mastered, including after having been subjected for aperiod of 15 minutes to a steam treatment with a moisture content of 91%(FIG. 7).

Furthermore, the observed effects are long lasting (about three months).

EXAMPLE 5—COMPARATIVE TEST

A kit containing:

-   -   a straightening composition in the form of a straightening cream        comprising only but an amino acid and an alcohol (that is to say        without protein and without vegetable oil);    -   and a «top coat» mask comprising a protein;

whose compositions are reported respectively in the following Tables 5and 6 is prepared.

TABLE 5 Straightening composition Ingredients Quantity (% w/w) Water51.9 Glycerin 2 Arginine 1 Cysteine 1.8 Glutamic acid 0.4 Alcohol 5Caprylic capric triglyceride 5 Tocopherol 0.5 Aloe vera juice 20Glyceryl stearate citrate 2 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 3 Cetearylalcohol 2 Sodium stearoyl lactylate 1 Ceteareth-20 3 Phenoxyethanol 0.5Dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol 0.4 Perfume 0.5

TABLE 6 «top coat» mask Ingredients Quantity (% w/w) Water 80.6 Cetearylalcohol 3.5 Cetrimonium chloride 6.6 Glycerin 0.5 Behentrimoniummethosulfate, cetearyl 2 alcohol Polyquaternium-7 0.5 Shea Butter 2Cetrimonium chloride, amodimethicone, 1 trideceth-12 Lactic acid 0.05Phenoxyethanol 0.4 Hydrolyzed collagen 0.4 Aminopropyl phenyltrimethicone 0.4 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.1 PEG-90M 0.1Hydrolyzed elastin 0.8 Panthenol 0.5 BHT 0.05 Perfume 0.5

A straightening test was subsequently performed with this compositionaccording to a protocol identical to that described in Example 4.

A photo taken before treatment shows the hair in its natural state (FIG.8).

After treatment, dull and dehydrated hair is observed. Furthermore, oncontact with the heat of the hair dryer, the hair does not straightenbut swells and takes on a very frothy appearance. Despite an attempt torecover by brushing, the result is very insufficient (FIG. 9).

The invention claimed is:
 1. A kit useful for straightening haircomprising: 50 to 70 percent by weight of a first composition containing0.1 to 20 percent by weight of an amino acid selected from the groupconsisting of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, carnitine,cysteine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine,N-phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan,tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta alanine, taurine,lysine, arginine, and one of their acid or base, organic or mineralsalts, and 0.1 to 20 percent by weight of a protein selected from thegroup consisting of creatine, hydrolyzed creatine, keratin, hydrolyzedkeratin, wheat protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, silk protein,hydrolyzed silk protein, soy protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, collagen,hydrolyzed collagen, elastin, hydrolyzed elastin, pea protein,hydrolyzed pea protein, rice protein, hydrolyzed rice protein,conchiolin protein, hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, whey protein, andhydrolyzed whey protein; and 30 to 50 percent by weight of a secondcomposition containing 1 to 50 percent by weight of an alcohol selectedfrom the group consisting of butanol, isopropanol, and ethanol, and 50to 95 percent by weight of a vegetable oil selected from the groupconsisting of sweet almond oil, olive oil, argan oil, Haarlem oil,Babassu oil, broccoli seed oil, avocado oil, linseed oil, apricot oil,cucumber oil, nigella oil, brazil nut oil, grape seed oil, shea oleinsesame oil and tomato oil.
 2. The kit according to claim 1, wherein thecomposition containing the amino acid and the protein is in the form ofa cream, gel, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, hair lotion orshampoo.
 3. The kit according to claim 1, wherein the compositioncontaining the alcohol and the vegetable oil is in the form of a cream,gel, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, hi-phasic lotion or shampoo.